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苗族服饰 苗族的盛装和便装有着怎样的差别

来源:麒麟网2016-10-10 00:06:55责编:桂婷人气:
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【内容导读】盛装雷山长裙苗族女子盛装是由雄衣和石衽上衣发展演变而成。上装有两层,内层为家机染青布,外层为紫色、蓝色绸缎。衣袖、衣边及背上均用挑、绉等绣法绣成龙、虎、羊和鱼、…
盛装雷山长裙苗族女子盛装是由雄衣和石衽上衣发展演变而成。上装有两层,内层为家机染青布,外层为紫色、蓝色绸缎。衣袖、衣边及背上均用挑、绉等绣法绣成龙、虎、羊和鱼、蝶、虫等动物图案,颜色为红、蓝、绿、黄等色,沿托肩镶长方形花草图案,袖口宽大,为无扣交叉大领衣。穿时,袖、肩缀满各种图案的银花片。下着青色家机布长绉裙,外罩二十四条红底绣有花、鸟、虫、鱼、蚌、蛙、龙、凤图案的花飘带,头戴银角,颈系亚领、项圈,再饰以银头花、银梳银泡、银簪、银手镯、银锁、耳环、戒指等。脚穿绣花船形鞋。同为长裙,方祥妇女喜欢着凤鹅大围腰,步往裙,少着花带。盛装的各种图案浓缩了苗族生活环境的景物,表现苗族妇女高雅的审美情趣。 苗族服饰特别引人注目的是雷山苗族服饰刺绣,其构图、用色、绣技实为“三绝”。苗族优秀的绣手具有大画家的思维,构图讲究严谨、对称、协调,每幅绣图均有主、副图案;构图内容取材广泛,天空、大地、人、神、植物、动物……苗族服饰苗族的盛装和便装有着怎样的差别无奇不有,且远古、近现代风格均有,往往在一幅图案中可互相融会贯通的内容达五大类:(1)远古神化传说如创世的蝴蝶妈妈等;(2)图腾崇拜如龙凤、水牛、飞鸟、枫树等;(3)大自然憧憬如人与山水、房屋、田园、五谷和谐相处;(4)历史追忆入苗族大迁徙渡过的黄河、长江、洞庭湖及迁徙路线;(5)崇拜的祖先如姜央(也有说是伏羲)、蚩尤等神圣的形象。优秀女绣手设计的内容丰富的图案,来自苗民先祖的人文观、自然观、历史观、生命观的代代相传,体现了独特、深厚的美学理念。这些刺绣多用于苗女盛装、便装和背带等。便装雷山苗族服饰,历来是用自纺自织自染的麻棉料布和丝绸料布维面料。男便装较为简朴。男上装一般为左衽上衣、对襟上衣以及左衽长衫三类,以对襟上衣最为普遍。女便装上装一般为右衽上衣和圆领胸前交叉上装两类,下装为各式百褶裙和长裤,色多为青色、藏青色、蓝色、黑色。

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